Monday, December 01, 2008
Well Thanksgiving has come and gone again and another quality trip over to the land of milk and honey has gone down. Last Friday, all stuffed still from T-Day dinners, Brodie, Gary, and I (sans Thomas because of his ankle disaster) headed out early to the East side to do some pebble wrestling. On the way into Bishop, Brodie had been wanting to check out the Sherman Plateau area. I scanned the guidebook and came across a problem called Everything and Nothing. It is a sweet overhanging pocket problem in the Pocketopia area. Brodie and I both dispatched this 3 star classic quickly despite all the snow and ice on the top out. That was about all we wanted with that place at this time of year. Definitely a summer hit up. So we headed back out onto 395 and decided with the light left we would scurry up to the milks and play around on Seven Spanish Angels. As the sun was setting, mind you it is only like 3:30, we both took down yet this classic problem.
Saturday was a day to show Gary, our Bishop virgin, a little of the Happys. There we got on Heavenly Path, a must do for first timers, as well as Mister Witty and Every Color You Are. With that we decided to go back across town and head to Dale's Camp. We had never been there before so really wanted to check it out. I, for one, am definitely going back for Gastonia and Hueco Wall. Up there we hopped on a super cool problem called Cuban Roll. It a high ball type problem thats got a kind of nerving roll out move towards the top. (hence the name).
Sunday was my apex of the trip with my tick of Pow Pow. Being my third trip trying it, I knew it was going to happen. I didn't really expect it but it all flowed perfectly and sent on my first go. After that the weekend was complete and it was time to pack up and head back to the place we call home, The Central Valley.
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Disaster!!!! At least for my climbing season that is....This past Saturday started off quite well. Daniel, Brodie, and I were joined by Brett for some heavy valley crankin. We started off over at the project wall and worked the two potential problems to the left of "T-Bag Surprise." Daniel made substantial progress on one of the two coming agonizingly close to sending but unable to unlock the top sequence. From there, we went over to check out the Woodyard. Having never been there before, we stopped at the Woodyard Arete, which is directly right of the infamous problem "Dogwood" that was featured in Dosage V. After a few short goes, Brodie sent the problem. Following that, I managed to get to the top but couldn't quite figure out the last move, so I dropped off and.....CRUNCH!!! There goes my ankle....Daniel and Brett sent shortly there after for the 3-peat send. Later that night a trip to the ER confirmed that I had fractured my tibia....so looks like I'm out for awhile unfortunately. Although if all goes to plan Daniel and I will be hitting up the ABS comp in SLO this weekend, so stay tuned for that!
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
So over the weekend of October 18, Daniel and I made a quick trip over Tioga, down the 395 to the magical land of Bishop. Temps there really hadn't dropped yet so some headlamp bouldering was in order. Once we arrived, we busted out the pads and walked over to a group working Soul Slinger. Daniel proceeded to walk up the problem first go at about 1 am! That was definitely the epic send of the trip. My trip was plagued by agonizingly reaching the top of two classics, High Plains Drifter and Atari, only to not be able to work the last move...anyways, it was a good short trip!
Sunday, July 20, 2008
So...it's been forever and a day since I posted last and a few things have gone down. Sometime in April Brett and I went cruising for some new FA's and projects. We mobbed around the Awahnee/Horse Trail area and ended up finding a gem. The first line is one entitled "T-Bag Surprise" and is a super-slopey overhanging arete problem. Located directly to the left of that problem is a couple super-sick projects that have yet to be sent as far as I know. Anyway, this boulder is kind of hard to find but is in-between the east Awahnee area and the start of the Horse Tail area (if that even helps at all).
Monday, March 24, 2008
Daniel headed up to the valley a couple weeks ago and needless to say it was awesome! Perfect weather, awesome new probs, and just a great day of bouldering. We started off the day on "Atlantis," which checks in at V6. I've been looking at this problem for a while now and finally got on it. It involves some fun, physical moves on positive slopey pinches. However, it is quite deceptive and definitely looks easier than it is. Daniel sent in typical fashion in about 3 goes. I followed up with another send, but it took me a while to stick the top slopey rail. After that I took Daniel over to "Pride." I gave it a quick few goes, but was shut down when the notorious crimp on that problem left its mark on my right pointer finger, and left me bleeding. Daniel gave the problem numerous good attempts, but couldn't seem to get enough pop on the dyno to snag the lip.
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Brodie and I met Ben at CJC and he showed us a few of the new gem problems he's been putting up in the Labyrinth. Some were still wet from the weekend storm, but luckily a few AMAZING lines were dry. The first problem was "The Minotaur," named for the two jugs at the top that resemble beast-like horns. "The Minotaur" is fairly high off the deck and involves some tenuous, physical moves, to literally, a do or die move to the lip. The landing is kind of sketch and if the last move is not executed, there is the potential to fly backwards and into a pit. At first, the problem felt quite awkward, but with a little trickery I was able to nab the second ascent. Brodie followed up shortly after with the third. "The Minotaur" probably checks in around V5. The next problem Ben showed us is an awesome roof problem. This problem just flows great and involves fun moves. Unfortunately, a second ascent was not made, but should see one soon!
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Well, Brodie and I thought because of this string of nice weather the valley snow might of dried up, but we were wrong. There was TONS of snow still, which left most of the boulder problems seaping with water and with snowy topouts. We played around on "The King" but unfortunately had to drop off at a certain point because of the ice on one of the key holds. We then pretty much proceeded to look for ANY dry problems and we finally found one, "Pride." It's a fairly new problem and is simple, yet hard, if that makes any sense. "Pride" consists of about 3 moves into a huge dyno for the top and checks in around V9. Neither of us sent, but agonizingly kept making it to the last move and hucking, hoping for the top.