Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Heres a video of Daniel and Brodie rockin "Flatline" and "Lifeline" from last weekend. Sorry about the shitty quality, I cant do much with only the 100mb youtube allows.

Saturday, March 17, 2007

After nearly 2 months of absence from Yosemite, Daniel and I finally made it back. We planned on checking out some more new problems in the La Conte area. First, Daniel made quick work of "Atheletes Die Young," a classic in the area, sending it in 2 goes. After that, we made our way over to the newly developed problems. This area, located directly behind "The Shield," is host to two amazing lines. The prominent line, "Flatline," is a death-defying highball, but luckily has its crux fairly close to the ground, and has a huge shark fin like jug directly after the crux, but one still has a series of moves to go to top it out. Unfortunately, neither of us could unlock the crux, so we moved left to the other line, which isn't as high off the ground, but has a rock underneath the landing that makes some interesting falls. "Lifeline" involves a lot of sidepulls and tension, and I have to say is one of the coolest problems I've got on in the Valley. Adequate pads are a necessity on this problem. The rock in the landing zone creates somewhat of a slide, but also can create some bruised heals and tweaked ankles, as Daniel and I soon found out. Daniel came down bad on his heel three times in a row and I tweaked my ankle a bit on the "slide" rock. Even after all of this, Daniel still managed to nab a send of the problem. After hobbling back to the car, we headed to Camp 4, with no particular problems in mind. Then we decided to hit up "Battle of the Bulge," a super classic Camp 4 problem. I had tried the problem a few times on previous trips, but in all those attempts, I was never able to stick the move out to the two left-hand slopers. After a significant amount of tries, I was finally able to get the body positioning just right to stick the top of the two slopers, but was confused on what to do to get to the top after that. After a team effort of finding some different beta, it came together, and I was able to send. It was a great day with great weather, and I once again have to give mucho props the Betabase guys for the problems in the La Conte area, they are excellent!

"Flatline"
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"Lifeline"
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"Battle of the Bulge"
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Sunday, March 11, 2007

Another great weekend in Bishop! With perfect temps, Brodie and I were ready to throw down some problems. After arriving, and picking up the sweet new guidebook, we made our way to the Happy's. First we hit up Ketron Classic, a super cool problem that consists of a long deadpoint to a decent sloper, followed by a quick lunge to the finishing jug. After we both sent, Brodie was ready to do battle with his nemesis, Morning Dove White. The last few trips he had made significant progress and was ready to send. He reached a new highpoint on his first go, getting the the last pocket hold and throwing for the rail. On around his 12th go or so, he stuck the rail and was able to match, but was too pumped for the last final big throw. Next we went over to Mister Witty, a problem that consists of a few quarter size pockets on a relatively blank face. Brodie did the problem first go, making the difficult problem look simple. With the sun going down quickly, we went over to Serengeti, a problem I had tried at the very end of our last trip. I sent it in about 4 goes, right before the sun went down. The next morning we went back up to Morning Dove White, but unfortunately with no success. From there we hit up the Buttermilks and got on Fly Boy, a awesome, powerful problem that concludes with an all or nothing dyno to the top. After some bad/awkward landings and a lack of pads, neither of us sent and we moved on to a relatively new area called the Apiary. Located near the Pollen Grains, the area is host to many problems that have seen little traffic. We mainly scouted the area, tried a problem, and then went to Soul Slinger. We met some people from Pennsylvania and realizing none of us were going to send, we all walked uphill to Saigon. Saigon is just one of those problems every boulderer sees a picture of, and just from that picture, wants to climb it. I hopped on it and came agonizingly close, sticking, but not holding, the good jug that leads to the top. The next day was my birthday, and I have to say there's no better feeling than waking up on your birthday and being in Bishop. With raw fingertips, we decided to just circuit some easy problems in the Happy's. We started off doing some easy, yet super committing and classic highballs such as The Heavenly Path. From there, our day started to drift away from doing just easy problems. We hopped on Groundwater, a short 3 or 4 move powerful problem that includes yarding off a sharp crimp followed by a big throw to a good sloper. We both sent it in a few goes, and also ran into our friends from Pennsylvania again. They were looking for the classic Action Figure, so we agreed to go show them where it's located. Action Figure is a sick line that consists of starting off two good underclings, making a left hand move out to a oddly shaped hold, hitting a bad right hand intermediate, quickly deadpointing right hand again to a small two finger pocket and finishing by making a big move to a juggy sloper. After figuring out how to grab the oddly shaped hold, I dug deep and sent, thus concluding another awesome trip in Bishop!

Morning Dove White
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Mister Witty

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Fly Boy

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The Apiary Area
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Saigon

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