Monday, February 26, 2007

Big update! I have just been informed on some history on bouldering in the Arboretum in Columbia. Dimitri (who gave me the info) commented on one of my posts and also wrote some stuff about the Arboretum's history in the forum at sonorapassclimbing.com. Here's his post in the forum:
"I spent a tremendous amount of time bouldering in the Arboretum from 1978 - 91. Many of the problems posted here as FA's have been done, all but one, that roof.

That traverse into the overhanging crack was done by me in 1987 and repeated by a number of people including Yabo and a handful of friends of mine from Spain. Yabo did that problem on his third go, it took me about three weeks off and on trying to get people to go there from Yosemite in order to work on it with a spot, no pads those days. The Coach was done before 1978 because it was a standard problem that got done a lot, the problem to the left got the FA by me in 1985. Also the Coach, I like that name, can be done by starting with the left hand on that pinch and is a bit harder. As you can tell I don't really care what these problems are called.

A good variation on the Triple Cracks is a start from the left edge of the boulder and traverse right climb the Triple Cracks but avoid the regular top out, go up and right to the very top, there is an obvious cone point. Then down climb the right side of that boulder until you're on the ground again. Also many of the top rope climbs were soloed in the late eighties and some of them are classic.

That roof looks really hard and no doubt it has never been done, i am sure you will find more like it. I remember some problems off the trail that goes to Columbia from the Arboretum, the landings kept us away back then, no pads! What a bunch of dumbasses we were for not inventing the crash pad, duhhh!

If I had a slide scanner I would post some photos, I have a around a hundred or more of the Arboretum bouldering including some of Kauk and other well known climbers of my generation."

He also told me that this problem below is called "Repent" put up by Dave Yerian in 1979 or 1980. Thanks Dimitri for all the great info!!!
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

No comments: