Saturday, September 30, 2006

The Reel Rock Tour stopped in the Valley yesterday. My Dad, Daniel, and I decided to hit that up as well as have a little session before. We went to the Crossroads boulders again, and Daniel made quick work on Crossroads Moe, sending in a few goes. Myself, on the other hand, was not so fortunate. The left exit of the problem (right exit described in previous post) involves a wicked small left hand crimp right before the last tricky momentum move to the top. Anyways, I finally figured out how to get my momentum moving in the right direction to move off the crimp, but as I was hucking for the top, my left hand popped off. This resulted in the deepest flapper I've ever had. After that we made it over to the auditorium where the show was. Klem Loskot opened by showing three short videos he made of skiing, traveling, and one climbing one that was down entirely with thousands of photos. Next Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden introduced the night main features Dosage 4 and First Ascent. Dosage 4 was first highlighting Sharma's route Dreamcatcher in Squamish, Lisa Rands send of the sketchy gritstone route Gaia, Shama and Graham in Hueco crushing problems, and Tommy Caldwell free climbing two El Cap routes, The Nose and Freerider, in a day. I have to point out that one of the opening clips showing Sharma on Dreamcatcher is awesome and I can't even describe it, so go check it out! The one big disappointment was the fact that the dose on Graham's Coup de Grace and boudering in Switzerland was ommitted, which was a total bummer. I have to say that the second film, First Ascent, was much better than I thought it would be. The film's main focus was following a Swiss climber, Dedier, as he worked and insane trad route in Squamish called Kobra Crack. In the end, he blows out his knee and the Canadian, Sonnie Trotter nabs the FA. All in all, both films are definately worth checking out.
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