The Reel Rock Tour stopped in the Valley yesterday. My Dad, Daniel, and I decided to hit that up as well as have a little session before. We went to the Crossroads boulders again, and Daniel made quick work on Crossroads Moe, sending in a few goes. Myself, on the other hand, was not so fortunate. The left exit of the problem (right exit described in previous post) involves a wicked small left hand crimp right before the last tricky momentum move to the top. Anyways, I finally figured out how to get my momentum moving in the right direction to move off the crimp, but as I was hucking for the top, my left hand popped off. This resulted in the deepest flapper I've ever had. After that we made it over to the auditorium where the show was. Klem Loskot opened by showing three short videos he made of skiing, traveling, and one climbing one that was down entirely with thousands of photos. Next Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden introduced the night main features Dosage 4 and First Ascent. Dosage 4 was first highlighting Sharma's route Dreamcatcher in Squamish, Lisa Rands send of the sketchy gritstone route Gaia, Shama and Graham in Hueco crushing problems, and Tommy Caldwell free climbing two El Cap routes, The Nose and Freerider, in a day. I have to point out that one of the opening clips showing Sharma on Dreamcatcher is awesome and I can't even describe it, so go check it out! The one big disappointment was the fact that the dose on Graham's Coup de Grace and boudering in Switzerland was ommitted, which was a total bummer. I have to say that the second film, First Ascent, was much better than I thought it would be. The film's main focus was following a Swiss climber, Dedier, as he worked and insane trad route in Squamish called Kobra Crack. In the end, he blows out his knee and the Canadian, Sonnie Trotter nabs the FA. All in all, both films are definately worth checking out.

The 06 bouldering season in the Valley is on! Cool temps + Great weather = Sent problems. Today Cole and I hit up Yosemite. I've wanted to check out the Crossroads boulder for some time now and today finally decided to. For those who have not been to the Crossroads boulder, drop everything and check it out. It's awesome. All the problems on it are quality stuff. We did the zeros on it and worked The Naked and Hairy Traverse V4 and Crossroads Moe V6. The traverse is quite technical and balancy and we couldn't put the together the middle sequence. Crossroads Moe proved to be one of the coolest problems I've seen. It starts on a big right slanting rail and a right hand jug. From there, get a high heel hook and paste the right foot and make a huge right hand move to a decent sloper. I was able to match the sloper and make a move out right to a really bad sloper, but couldn't do the last big bump move to the top. From there we headed to the Curry Village boulders. The first problem we did was one Cole and I had tried last year. We did the V2 stand start that is basically just a dyno, last year, but the V4 SDS was way above our ability. So naturally we wanted to redeem ourselves. I did the SDS in a couple of tries and Cole got super close a bunch of times, but just couldn't put it all together. He'll definately finish it next trip. After that I did a problem nearby called New Dehli Freight Train V4. It's basically involves a slightly overhanging lieback start to a sloper, then moves out to a right facing side-pull to a tricky mantle. For the send, I busted out a Shamu move and beached whaled that shiz. Definately an awesome day with awesome weather. Can't wait for the rest of the season.
Crossroads Moe




Cole busting to the sloper on Crossroads Moe


The Naked and Hairy Traverse



The Steep Face Dyno




New Dehli Freight Train

Today, Cole, Daniel, and I set out with hopes of catching a load of crawfish. We set a few traps and then mobbed it up to Columbia. I repeated Triple Cracks and Daniel put up a awesome new FA. It's located to the left of Triple Cracks on the pathway between two rocks. It starts on the problem to the right of the arete, but instead of going directly up, make a big move out right and finish up the crack. He hasn't named it yet and thinks its somewhere in the V8/9 range. After we were done bouldering, we went back to the traps, only to find them totally empty. Stupid crawdads.
UPDATE: Daniel named his new problem CRAWFISH AVENGER
Here's the sequence to Daniel's new FA Crawfish Avenger










Cole on an unknown problem.

Yesterday, Brodie hosted the 1st MotoWn ShoWdowN to kick off the completion of his new bouldering wall. A good showing of people came, which made for an awesome session. There was plenty of problems for everyone to try. The difficulties varied anywhere from wicked hard to simple jug pulling. Out of all the problems set only one didn't get sent. After everybody's fingers were tired, many games of a variation on ping pong were played. All in all, the event was awesome and will definately have to be an annual thing. Many thanks to Brodie for putting on the event and those who showed up.